Friday 30 December 2016

Untested - Apple Butter

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p 418

Apples (as many as you have on hand)
1lb sugar x pint of pulp
1 clove x 4 pints of pulp

  1. Wash apples and cut through the middle by laying it on its side to reveal the star inside.
  2. Pop the cut apples in a large pot (stock pot or preserving pan) and add a little water or apple cider. Cook over low heat until the apples are a soft mush.
  3. Press the mush through a coarse sieve or food mill until all that's left are the skins, the tough bits of the core and pips (it's good if some pips burst and the white insides go into the pulp - it shows that the mush has been cooked enough).
  4. Measure the pulp and add the correct amount of sugar and cloves, as indicated in the ingredients list.
  5. Stir in the sugar until it dissolves and boil until the mixture stiffens and coats the back of a spoon. It should reach the temperature of 240F.
  6. Pack into sterilized jars and process in a water bath for 20 minutes. The flavour will improve with age.
  7. Serving suggestions in the original text, below.


"In its stiffest form this was sometimes called apple cheese. Then it was almost candied, and turned out as a dessert dish, at Christmas, apple cheese was set at one end of the table, amber golden, and garnished with hazel nuts and whipped cream, and Damson cheese, ruby dark, garnished with white almonds, and with port wine poured over, at the other end of the table. It was made in all country houses at windfall apple time. The best was made of all one type of apple, but mixed apples, of all sorts, with a quince or two, made a delectable apple butter.
"Take all the windfall apples, wash them, but do not peel or core, and cut them across the core so as to cut through the pips - this is important for the flavour. Put into a deep preserving pan, start with a cup of cider or water, and cook slowly, covered closely, till all are a soft mush. Now press it through a coarse sieve; if sufficiently cooked, you will see the small white kernels of the pips going through the sieve with the apple pulp; nothing should be left in the sieve but the peels, and empty cores, and pips. Measure the pulp and add 1lb of sugar for each pint of pulp, and 1 clove to each 4 pints. Stir sugar into the pulp till dissolved, and cook slowly till clear, then boil till the stiff mixture coats the back of the spoon with golden gum.
"Pot into wide-mouthed jars and tie down. It improves with keeping up to a year. It should turn out firmly, with a very slight crystallising on the crust, but mellow, soft amber juice within."

Thursday 29 December 2016

Untested - Apple Pie (1767)

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p 418

1. I'm fascinated by the instruction to boil the peel and cores.

"Make a good Puff paste crust and lay some round the sides of the dish, quarter the apples thick, throw in some sugar with a little lemon peel minced fine, and a clove here and there, and then the rest of the apples. Boil the cores and peel, with a blade of mace, and some more sugar till it be very good [i.e., a thick syrup], pour over so that the dish is full, put on your upper crust and bake. Serve it smoking hot, with sugar dredged upon it and cream with it."

2 recipes of pie crust
2 1⁄2 lbs apples
1⁄3 + 1⁄4 cup sugar
2 tsp lemon peel, finely minced (or try 1 Tbsp apple cider vinegar)
6 whole cloves
A fragment of mace

  1. Roll out half the pie dough and line the pie plate with it. Evenly sprinkle in 1⁄3 cup of sugar and the lemon peel, and distribute the cloves.
  2. In a saucepan mix in 1⁄4 cup of the sugar and all of the mace.
  3. Peel and core the apples. As you're going along, mix the peelings and cores in the saucepan blend, and slice the apple flesh into 1⁄4" thick wedges. 
  4. Arrange the apple flesh in the lined pie plate.
  5. Bring the apple peel and core and sugar to a boil and cook until it turns into a thick syrup (like, soft candy stage or just thick?).
  6. Pour over the apples.
  7. Roll out the top crust and lay it over the pie, dampening the edges and pinching either with your fingers or with a fork.
  8. Bake at 375F for 40-60 minutes, rotating front-to-back halfway through. (May need to protect the edges of the crust for 20 minutes if it tends to burn?)

Wednesday 28 December 2016

Untested - 18th Century Apple Soup

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p 417

(Titled MS. of 1800)

"Five pints of mutton broth, three or four pounds of windfall apples, cut up but not peeled or cored. Simmer the apples in the broth till soft, and press all through a strainer; season with a very small pinch of ginger [better in this than pepper], salt and reheat with a handful of pearl barley and cook gently till the barley is soft.
"This is an excellent winter night soup."

11 cups mutton broth
3-4 lbs apples
Scant pinch of powdered ginger
Salt
1⁄2 cup pearl barley

  1. While broth is coming up to a boil, roughly chop the whole apples.
  2. Add the apples to the broth and simmer until the largest pieces of apple are soft.
  3. Press through a strainer or food mill to remove the apple pits, cores and skins.
  4. Add the ginger, salt and pearl barley.
  5. Return to a simmer and cook for 25-35 minutes or until the barley is cooked.