Wednesday, 5 April 2017

Wild Omelets

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 214

'To travelers: the best omelets on earth are made over the white ash of the camp-fire. Brown the tops with a red-hot charcoal of timber, held almost two inches above the omelet's surface as it rises in the pan.'

Wednesday, 29 March 2017

Savoury omelet for Two Persons

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 214

'An omelet is a friendly dish - the friends must be seated and have wine or coffee served to them, so that they await cheerfully. Never cook the omelet till you have seen the recipient seated, with his napkin tucked down, ready to begin.' p. 213

Suggested fillings: chopped mushroom, shreds of chicken and ham, fresh chopped herbs for plain fillings; crisp bacon and fine onions for winter, green peas and asparagus for summer. 'Fillings should be slight, but very well flavoured and juicy.'
Sweet omelet: flavoured with rum or sherry (instead of water? Or just a sprinkle?) with a fruit or jam filling. Honey and cinnamon with a sprinkle of hot cider on the folded top

2 large mushrooms, chopped
1 slice bacon, diced
1 Tbsp butter
3 eggs
1/4 tsp fresh herb(s)
Dash of salt and pepper

  1. In a large oven-ready non-stick or well-seasoned cast iron pan, slowly fry the mushrooms and bacon in the butter.
  2. Meanwhile, separate the egg whites and whisk just until soft peaks barely form.
  3. Using the egg shells, measure out three egg-shell halves of water and add to the yolk, one for each egg. Add a dash of salt and pepper.
  4. Without wiping the whisk used to whip the whites, beat the yolks - 'they should raise a fine froth'.
  5. Once the filling is well cooked, remove it with a slotted spoon and keep it piping hot.
  6. Turn on the broiler of your oven.
  7. When the butter is once again smoking hot (add more if necessary, depending on filling), lightly mix together the yolk and whites and immediately pour the egg into the hot pan. 'It should make a delicious frou-frou soundas it greets the hot butter, and the top of the foam should quiver delicately.'
  8. Immediately put it under the broiler. The golden froth should start to expand upwards. If you like the centre a little runny, remove it in __ minutes or when __??__. If you prefer it cooked through cook __ minutes. In either case, the edges should come away from the pan.
  9. Slide it onto a hot dish, put the filling on one half 'folding it over in one swift movement. Serve instantly.'

Sunday, 26 March 2017

Buckinghamshire Rabbit

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 213

(mentioned in the entry for Poached Eggs p. 212-3)

?? cups meat or vegetable stock
Salt and pepper
6 fresh eggs, like, only days old
1 loaf Wonder Bread or other country-style crusty bread
Butter (optional)

  1. Put the stock in a small pot and bring to just before a boil. Reduce the temperature to maintain it at a slow simmer.
  2. Put some thick slices of bread to toast to get them dry. 
  3. Into a small bowl crack an egg, create a vortex in the slowly simmering stock and, whites first, slowly slide the egg into the centre. Cook for about 3 minutes for soft yolks (and how else would a sensible person want their poached egg, anyway?). Scoop out with a slotted spoon and place on top of the dry toast, spooning some broth over it.
  4. NOTE: is this better with the broth served separately OR spooned over the bread, a little like Soupe à l'oignon?

Friday, 17 March 2017

Buck Rabbit

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 212-213

(Mentioned as part of the Poached Egg entry)

I hope I have the sequencing right!! There are lots of parts to making this, which was unexpected when I started trying to work it out in writing.

1 recipe of Welsh Rabbit
1 loaf Wonder Bread
Butter
6 eggs
Vinegar
3 medium-to-small tomatoes
Salt and pepper
Oil

  1. Put on a pot of water to boil then reduce heat to a steady simmer.
  2. Toast the bread, butter it and set it aside.
  3. Meanwhile prepare the Welsh Rabbit up to the point where the sauce is finished.
  4. Heat up a pan or a grill. Cut the tomato in half; drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Fry the tomato on each side until it browns, 2-3 minutes.
  5. Into the simmering water add a dash of vinegar.
  6. Into a small bowl crack an egg, create a vortex in the simmering water and, whites first, slowly slide the egg into the centre. Cook for about 3 minutes for soft yolks (and how else would a sensible person want their poached egg, anyway?). Scoop out with a slotted spoon and drain on a cloth before assembling the dish.
  7. Turn on the oven broiler. Pour out the cheese sauce over the bread and grill in the oven as per the recipe.
  8. Layer the hot grilled tomato on top and the poached egg on top of that. Salt and pepper and serve immediately.

Tuesday, 14 March 2017

Boiled Egg - Coddled Egg

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 212

Fresh and older eggs should be cooked differently (What is considered a non-fresh egg? How old must it be?)

Boiling an older egg - place in boiling water for 3.5 minutes.

Fresh egg - place in boiling water for 3.5 minutes. Remove the boiling bot of water from the heat source and let sit for an additional 5-6 minutes with the egg in it. 'Eggs cooked in this way can be kept in hot water for some time without becoming hard, and it preserves the natural moisture in the new-laid egg.'

Sunday, 12 March 2017

Crypspey

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 221

'Take whyte of eyroun and mylke and floure and a lytel berme and bete to gederys so that it be renning and not too styf. Caste sugre thereto and salt, than take a chafer full of fresshe grece boyling and put thy hand in the lature and lat hym renne down thy fyngerys, into the chafere. Whan it is runne togedere on the chafere and is y now nym a skymer and tike it up and let all the grece renne out and put it on a fayre dyssche and cast theron sugre and serve forth (with).'

1 egg white
1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup flour
1/2 tsp dry active yeast (here 'berme' refers to 'barm', the yeast that forms on malt liquors while fermenting, but I don't know how to get this... yet)
1 Tbsp sugar + 1 Tbsp sugar
A pinch of salt
__ ? coconut or animal fat oil

  1. Unless you have barm on hand, you'll have to activate the dry active yeast. Warm the milk to body temperature, sprinkle the yeast on the surface, cover and let sit in a warm place for about 10 minutes. 
  2. Whisk the egg whites until fluffy, the add the flour and the milk, stirring until you get a batter that is like thick cream. If it's too thick, add more milk.
  3. Add the first Tbsp of sugar and the salt and let sit while the oil is heating up.
  4. (What size pot or frying pan for the oil? How much oil?)
  5. Once the oil is at 350F for frying, take up about a half cup of batter and let it run down your fingers into the hot oil; they become crisp little nests of sweet fried batter.
  6. Leave in the oil until it browns then flip to finish browning. Scoop it up with a slotted spoon and lay on paper towel to soak up any extra oil and while it's still hot sprinkle with the second Tbsp of sugar.

Saturday, 11 March 2017

Mayonnaise

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 220

2 egg yolks
__ salt
__ pepper
__ dry mustard
1 Tbsp (or more) tarragon vinegar
1 pint salad (ie. bland) oil

  1. Whisk the eggs, salt, pepper and mustard until the yolk turns a pale yellow ('start the cream').
  2. Continually whisking, very slowly, in small quantities and alternately add the vinegar and the oil. Whisk constantly until the characteristic thick cream is formed.
  3. In hot weather work in a cold room or in a chilled bowl