Saturday 14 October 2017

Sous Fassoun (Stuffed cabbage à la mode de Grasse)

Elizabeth David, French Country Cooking, p.98

1 large white cabbage
2 oz rice (white or brown?)
2 oz ground pork sausage
3 oz bacon
1/2 lb minced pig's liver
1/2 lb fresh green peas
1 lettuce heart
2 leeks, finely chopped
?? egg yolks
?? tsp salt
?? tsp pepper
?? tsp mace
?? tsp nutmeg
1 garlic clove, crushed
Herbs??
?? Beef slices
?? cubed raw ham or bacon
1 pig's foot (if salted, soak to remove salt)
6 carrots
6 small turnips
Bouquet garni of thyme, parsley, rosemary and bayleaf
1 cup rich stock
Optional: tomato sauce

  1. Set a large pot to boil and drop in the whole cabbage for 5 minutes. Drain and allow to cool.
  2. Mix together the ingredients listed up to the ??Herbs in a large bowl.
  3. Keep in mind that the recipe from this point on has as its goal smearing each leaf with some of the mixture and reconstituting the cabbage head into a ball to cook. To this aim:
  4. Remove all the cabbage leaves and lay them out in rows by size.
  5. Smear each leaf with the same thickness of meat mixture.
  6. Lay the leaves one on top of the other, wrapping each in the last, to, as close as possible, reform a ball.
  7. Lay the beef and pork and the remaining veg and bouquet garni in a deep casserole and lay the ball of stuffed leaves in the centre. Pour over the cup of stock.
  8. Bake in a (extremely slow)F oven for 2 to 3 hours.
  9. If serving with a tomato sauce, serve it separately so that each person can add some sauce on top of their portion.

Friday 13 October 2017

Foie de porc braisé (Braised Pork Liver)

French Country Cooking, Elizabeth David, p. 85

2 - 3 slices of bacon, cut into lardons
6-7 slices bacon, whole
Lots of black pepper
2-3 lb pig's liver
1/2 cup white wine
Enough chicken stock to just cover the liver (what would it be like with pork bone stock) stock
6 carrots en julienne
1 onion, whole
Cloves
1 bay leaf
? tsp thyme
? Tbsp parsley
7 peppercorns
1 clove garlic
Butter

  1. Preheat the oven to 350F.
  2. Roll the lardons in the gound black pepper.
  3. Remove the skin and tubes from the liver but keep it whole.
  4. Make incisions all over the liver and insert the lardons.
  5. To a ? x ? casserole dish fitted with a lid (just big enough for a 2-3 lb liver to achieve ideal braising conditions), line with 4-5 slices of bacon. Pour over the wine and stock.
  6. Stick the onion with the cloves.
  7. Surround the liver with the onion, carrots and herbs. 
  8. Place another slice or two of bacon on top of the liver, cover the casserole and simmer in the oven for about 30-45 minutes or the internal temperature reaches 160F.
  9. Once cooked, remove any excess fat from the braising liquid, strain it off into a small saucepan and reduce it by half. Once reduced, add a walnut of butter and whisk together. 
  10. Pour the sauce over the liver and serve immediately. 

Monday 9 October 2017

Boiled Pork and Pease Pudding

Food In England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 110

Pork roast (shoulder cuts, leg/ham cuts and pork shanks or hocks)
Carrots
Turnips
Parsnips
Rutabaga
Onions
Cabbage
Celery leaves
1 cup dry green peas (whole or split?)
1 sprig of mint
Salt
11 peppercorns
1 - 2 Tbsps sugar
1 cup hard cider
Bacon fat
Ground pepper

  1. Poach the meat in a saucepan or Dutch oven in which it fits fairly tightly. Cover it with plenty of cold water. Slowly bring it to a full boil, uncovered.
  2. Meanwhile, put the dry peas and mint in a muslin cloth with a pinch of salt. Allow a lot of room for the peas to swell when firmly tying the cloth into a bundle; make sure a string is attached at the neck so that you can attach the other end of the string to the handle of your cooking pot.
  3. If the joint is very large, let it poach for a while before adding the vegetables. Dorothy indicates this should take several hours.
  4. Once the water is boiling, add all of the veg, and then suspend the bag inside the pot with the pork. Add the peppercorns, sugar and cider. Lower the heat so that the bot is slowly simmering and cover for the rest of the cooking time.
  5. The meat is done when a meat thermometre insterted away from the bone registers between 145°F and 150°F. Doneness can also be checked if the juices run clear when the thickest areas of meat are pierced.
  6. When cooked, drain the liquid to save it as broth. Let the meat rest for about 10-15 minutes before cutting.
  7. Lift out the pease pudding (if well made it should have swollen into a dense green cannon ball). Unravel it from the bag onto a hot dish, and DO NOT CUT, but pull it apart with two forks. Top with a know of bacon fat on each half, a few grinds of pepper, a spoonful of hot broth, and serve along with the meat and veg.
  8. Good with a good hearty bread.

Roast Leg of Pork

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 109-10

"If baked in the oven, take it out after a few minutes, and wrap the thin end round with a thick cabbage leaf (if the leaf is put on the raw meat, it will make it sodden) or something to slow up its cooking, otherwise it will be dried away to nothing before the thick end of the leg is thoroughly cooked through. For this reason we recommend boning a leg of pork and stuffing with sage and onion stuffing. It is easier to cook evenly."