Wednesday 27 December 2017

Leek Porridge

http://www.vintagerecipes.net/books/ladys_own_cookery_book/leek_porridge.php
https://www.skinnytaste.com/irish-oatmeal-leek-soup/

12 leeks
1 Tbsp butter
2 cups of milk
1/4 cup oatmeal
salt

  1. Clean and slice the white portion of the leeks (keep the tails for making broths).
  2. In a saucepan, cook the leeks in the butter until perfectly tender. 
  3. Add the milk and bring to simmer. 
  4. Sprinkle in the oatmeal and allow to cook at least another 20 minutes.
  5. Add salt, to taste.

Tuesday 26 December 2017

Panada

http://www.vintagerecipes.net/books/queenlikecloset/pennado.php
http://www.vintagerecipes.net/books/ladys_own_cookery_book/panada_3.php

__ oatmeal flour
__ currants
__ water
1 blade or 2 of mace
__ salt
yolks of 2 or 3 new-laid eggs
__ rose-water
__ sugar
__ nutmeg

  1. Steep the oatmeal flour overnight in water all night; strain and boil it over low heat, with some currants, the mace, and a little salt.
  2. Whisk together the yolks and the rose water.
  3. When the oat flour is well boiled, remove from heat; and whisk in the yolk mixture. 
  4. Set it on a very gentle heat, and stir it that it may not curdle. 
  5. Sweeten with sugar, and put in a little nutmeg.

Monday 25 December 2017

Split Pea Soup - PUBLISHED


http://www.vintagerecipes.net/books/twentyfive_cent_dinners/oatmeal_and_peas.php

1 - This is surprisingly good! The oatmeal makes lends and unctuous texture that is quite pleasing. I could try it, next time, with some Frenchifying flavours like bay and/or thyme, maybe some carrot? I thought of adding stock instead of just water, but frankly, I don't think it needs it.

4 oz of fat pork or bacon (about 4 slices of thick bacon)
2 onions, chopped
2 tsps of salt
1 tsp of sugar
1/2 tsp of pepper (maybe more?)
8-12 cups cold water
2 cups of yellow split peas
4 oz of oatmeal

  1. Cut the pork into lardons along with the onion and render the fat at medium heat for about ten minutes.
  2. Season with the salt, sugar, and pepper, then add the cold water and the peas. Bring to a boil and then simmer until the peas become quite soft.
  3. Stir in the oatmeal and simmer for another twenty minutes.

Sunday 12 November 2017

Sweetbreads in White Gravy

Food in England by Dorothy Hartley, p. 111

Sweetbreads (weight?)
1 slice of bacon cut into lardons
1 stick celery, fine dice
1 bouquet garni
(maybe 1/2 cup milk of cream)
Salt and pepper
Bread slices, well toasted

(referred to http://www.donaldrussell.com/calf-s-sweetbreads-with-mushrooms-in-a-cream-sauce.html)
  1. Soak the sweetbreads in cold, heavily salted water for 1 hour. Drain, and rinse.
  2. Bring the stock to a boil, season with salt, and add the sweetbreads. Reduce to a simmer and cook 8-10 minutes. Remove the sweetbreads from the poaching liquid and set aside to cool a bit.
  3. Meanwhile, cook the bacon very slowly to render the fat and avoid browning the meat. Add the celery and herbs and poach the celery in the fat until it is soft, then sprinkle with flour; cook for another 2-3 minutes to cook off the raw flour flavour. 
  4. Drain 3/4 to 1 cup of the poaching liquid from the sweetbreads (and dairy?) into the celery mixture and beat to make a smooth sauce. Season with some salt and pepper. Simmer for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, to thicken.
  5. Clear any skin, fat or gristle, from the sweetbreads and slice fairly thickly. They should be as white as a piece of bread. 
  6.  Place the sweetbreads on top of the celery in the pot. Season to taste with salt and pepper and simmer for an additional 5 minutes to heat through the sweetbreads.
  7. Spoon over the dry toast.

Friday 3 November 2017

Sweetbreads

Food in England by Dorothy Hartley, p. 111

"The pig's sweetbreads usually form part of the mixed dish known as pig's fry.
" There are three different breads: the heart, throat and pancreas. Being white meat they are considered suitable for invalids.

  1. First blanch them, by soaking in salted water for an hour, 
  2. then put into fresh cold salted water (or milk or mild stock) and bring to the boil as slowly as possible. 
  3. Drain, clear of any skin or gristle, and slice fairly thickly. They should now be as white as a piece of bread. 
  4. They can be egg-and-crumbled and fried, or served in a number of ways, but for invalids this is perhaps the best."

Yrchins (Urchins)

Food in England by Dorothy Hartley, p. 110

"Very colourful mediaeval dish."

(Not sure how to translate this one)

Pig Haggis

Food in England by Dorothy Hartley, p. 110

1 pig's stomach
? Salt
5 cups cooked potato
1/2 cup butter
1/2 tsp dry ground sage of 1 Tbsp fresh, minced
1 large onion, diced
1-2 celery sticks
3/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp pepper
1/2 cup fresh parsley, minced
Bacon fat
Apple sauce

  1. The day before, turn the stomach inside-out and scrub clean. Soak in heavily salted water.
  2. Next day, cook the potatoes and mash or rice them. Put them in a large bowl.
  3. Melt the butter in a skillet, and poach the celery and onion at medium-low temperatures until the celery is tender, then add everything in the pan to the potatoes, along with the sage, salt, pepper and parsley. Blend well. 
  4. Stuff the haggis and roast in the oven for 2-3 hours at ???F (try 350 degrees, check after 1 hour), basting with bacon fat.
  5. Serve with apple sauce and gravy.

Saturday 14 October 2017

Sous Fassoun (Stuffed cabbage à la mode de Grasse)

Elizabeth David, French Country Cooking, p.98

1 large white cabbage
2 oz rice (white or brown?)
2 oz ground pork sausage
3 oz bacon
1/2 lb minced pig's liver
1/2 lb fresh green peas
1 lettuce heart
2 leeks, finely chopped
?? egg yolks
?? tsp salt
?? tsp pepper
?? tsp mace
?? tsp nutmeg
1 garlic clove, crushed
Herbs??
?? Beef slices
?? cubed raw ham or bacon
1 pig's foot (if salted, soak to remove salt)
6 carrots
6 small turnips
Bouquet garni of thyme, parsley, rosemary and bayleaf
1 cup rich stock
Optional: tomato sauce

  1. Set a large pot to boil and drop in the whole cabbage for 5 minutes. Drain and allow to cool.
  2. Mix together the ingredients listed up to the ??Herbs in a large bowl.
  3. Keep in mind that the recipe from this point on has as its goal smearing each leaf with some of the mixture and reconstituting the cabbage head into a ball to cook. To this aim:
  4. Remove all the cabbage leaves and lay them out in rows by size.
  5. Smear each leaf with the same thickness of meat mixture.
  6. Lay the leaves one on top of the other, wrapping each in the last, to, as close as possible, reform a ball.
  7. Lay the beef and pork and the remaining veg and bouquet garni in a deep casserole and lay the ball of stuffed leaves in the centre. Pour over the cup of stock.
  8. Bake in a (extremely slow)F oven for 2 to 3 hours.
  9. If serving with a tomato sauce, serve it separately so that each person can add some sauce on top of their portion.

Friday 13 October 2017

Foie de porc braisé (Braised Pork Liver)

French Country Cooking, Elizabeth David, p. 85

2 - 3 slices of bacon, cut into lardons
6-7 slices bacon, whole
Lots of black pepper
2-3 lb pig's liver
1/2 cup white wine
Enough chicken stock to just cover the liver (what would it be like with pork bone stock) stock
6 carrots en julienne
1 onion, whole
Cloves
1 bay leaf
? tsp thyme
? Tbsp parsley
7 peppercorns
1 clove garlic
Butter

  1. Preheat the oven to 350F.
  2. Roll the lardons in the gound black pepper.
  3. Remove the skin and tubes from the liver but keep it whole.
  4. Make incisions all over the liver and insert the lardons.
  5. To a ? x ? casserole dish fitted with a lid (just big enough for a 2-3 lb liver to achieve ideal braising conditions), line with 4-5 slices of bacon. Pour over the wine and stock.
  6. Stick the onion with the cloves.
  7. Surround the liver with the onion, carrots and herbs. 
  8. Place another slice or two of bacon on top of the liver, cover the casserole and simmer in the oven for about 30-45 minutes or the internal temperature reaches 160F.
  9. Once cooked, remove any excess fat from the braising liquid, strain it off into a small saucepan and reduce it by half. Once reduced, add a walnut of butter and whisk together. 
  10. Pour the sauce over the liver and serve immediately. 

Monday 9 October 2017

Boiled Pork and Pease Pudding

Food In England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 110

Pork roast (shoulder cuts, leg/ham cuts and pork shanks or hocks)
Carrots
Turnips
Parsnips
Rutabaga
Onions
Cabbage
Celery leaves
1 cup dry green peas (whole or split?)
1 sprig of mint
Salt
11 peppercorns
1 - 2 Tbsps sugar
1 cup hard cider
Bacon fat
Ground pepper

  1. Poach the meat in a saucepan or Dutch oven in which it fits fairly tightly. Cover it with plenty of cold water. Slowly bring it to a full boil, uncovered.
  2. Meanwhile, put the dry peas and mint in a muslin cloth with a pinch of salt. Allow a lot of room for the peas to swell when firmly tying the cloth into a bundle; make sure a string is attached at the neck so that you can attach the other end of the string to the handle of your cooking pot.
  3. If the joint is very large, let it poach for a while before adding the vegetables. Dorothy indicates this should take several hours.
  4. Once the water is boiling, add all of the veg, and then suspend the bag inside the pot with the pork. Add the peppercorns, sugar and cider. Lower the heat so that the bot is slowly simmering and cover for the rest of the cooking time.
  5. The meat is done when a meat thermometre insterted away from the bone registers between 145°F and 150°F. Doneness can also be checked if the juices run clear when the thickest areas of meat are pierced.
  6. When cooked, drain the liquid to save it as broth. Let the meat rest for about 10-15 minutes before cutting.
  7. Lift out the pease pudding (if well made it should have swollen into a dense green cannon ball). Unravel it from the bag onto a hot dish, and DO NOT CUT, but pull it apart with two forks. Top with a know of bacon fat on each half, a few grinds of pepper, a spoonful of hot broth, and serve along with the meat and veg.
  8. Good with a good hearty bread.

Roast Leg of Pork

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 109-10

"If baked in the oven, take it out after a few minutes, and wrap the thin end round with a thick cabbage leaf (if the leaf is put on the raw meat, it will make it sodden) or something to slow up its cooking, otherwise it will be dried away to nothing before the thick end of the leg is thoroughly cooked through. For this reason we recommend boning a leg of pork and stuffing with sage and onion stuffing. It is easier to cook evenly."

Saturday 23 September 2017

Preserving eggs in lime water

It is absolutely true that there is a glut of eggs in the late spring and early summer and a dearth of eggs in the winter. This is why I determined that it was important to discover a means to preserve eggs for several months, preferable doing without the electricity required for refrigeration. There are several methods discussed on the internet, but only one that has been corroborated by the extraordinary Ruth Goodman - immersing the eggs in a bath of slaked lime diluted in water. In perusing more detailed information I've come up with the following sources of information:


My first attempt at this is described as follows:
  1. Boil 8 cups of water.
  2. Pour into a glass or non-reactive container.
  3. Standing away to avoid the lime dust and fumes, pour in 8 oz (about 2 cups) of hydrolyzed lime, and mix (should dilute with no problem, mixing is just to make sure).
  4. Allow to cool completely before gently lowering in eggs. Pour off any excess liquid as the volume of the eggs start to displace the water.

Friday 26 May 2017

Hawthorn Jelly

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 440

1 lb ripe hawthorn berries
1/2 pint, plus, water
(optional: red apple parings)
Sugar (see recipe for quantity)

  1. NOTE: recipe can be easily adjusted to fit the quantity of fruit you have.
  2. Wash the fruit. Simmer in the water until the fruit becomes soft. Mash them down often during the cooking.
  3. When all the fruit is completely soft, hang in a jelly bag overnight to drip.
  4. Measure the juice and for every pint of juice, add 1 lb of sugar.
  5. Simmer slowly in a preserving pan until the sugar has dissolved completely, then bring to a rapid boil until the jelly sets (use the frozen plate test or candy thermometre).
  6. Put in pots and preserve as usual.

Hawthorn Flower Liqueur

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 440

'The strong almond-scented may blossom makes a good liqueur. Gather the flowers when in full scent, using scissors, and taking the flower heads only, not the tiny stems. Pack them into a bottle with a wide mouth, shaking them down loosely, but do not bruise them or ram them in hard. Shade a very little crushed sugar candy over the flowers (2 Tbsps to a pint bottle would be ample). Fill up with brandy, and cork lightly. Put the bottle into full sunshine till warmed through, then store in a dark, warm cupboard, and shake it up and down gently, several times, during the first few weeks (so that the candy is evenly dissolved and distributed). After that, let it stand unmoved for at least three months. Decant very gently into a small flask and cork securely, sealing closely.'

My first attemp will be with two batches, one with brandy, one with vodka. Since brandy already has its own flavour, I'm curious to taste a liqueur that is only the flavoured with the hawthorn flower.

Wednesday 3 May 2017

Egg-and-Apple Soufflé

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 215

Dorothy is of the opinion that this is a holdover of the Anglo-Norman coffer pastries, which are like the cookie pie crust, but stretched over a mold and baked upside-down. Once baked, they are removed and the inside filled with ... whatever.

The serving suggestion is with "glass custard" which, as far as I can tell, is just baked custard. Here I'm suggesting a Crème Anglaise instead.

1-2 Tbsps melted butter
+ 4 Tbsps+ butter
1 lb baked apple, pulp of
1-2 Tbsps brown sugar
1 tsp finely diced lemon peel
4 egg whites
Pinch of salt
4-6 Tbsps sugar
1 tsp candied lemon zest (optional, for decoration)
Candied angelica (optional, for decoration)
1 recipe Crème Anglaise lightly flavoured with orange flower water or rose or elderflower water (the flavouring is in the aroma so a little goes a long way)

Blind-baked pie crust (not sure if it should be regular cookie-crust or try some sort of coffer-pastry type recipe - undecided)

'Butter the outside of a cake-tin (or baking jar) and cover with a thin short crust. Bake it upside-down, and when cool slip out the tin.' (BUT how to prevent the crust from shrinking?) 'Brush over the inside with melted butter. Have ready some baked apple pulp.
  1. Pre-heat oven to 350F and bake cored apples each stuffed with 1 Tbsp butter (cinnamon?). Bake for about 15 minutes or until the apple is soft and fluffy.
  2. Mix sugar, lemon peel and apple pulp together.
  3. Dump into the pie shell to fill about half-way.
  4. With the pinch of salt, whip the eggs whites into soft peaks. continue whipping and, only a Tbsps at-a-time, add the sugar and beat until the egg whites become glossy and stiff. Adding the sugar too quickly will knock out air from the whites.
  5. Gently spread the meringue over the apple mash, making sure it firmly touches the pastry casing - this will prevent the meringue from shrinking away from the edges while baking.

Wednesday 5 April 2017

Wild Omelets

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 214

'To travelers: the best omelets on earth are made over the white ash of the camp-fire. Brown the tops with a red-hot charcoal of timber, held almost two inches above the omelet's surface as it rises in the pan.'

Wednesday 29 March 2017

Savoury omelet for Two Persons

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 214

'An omelet is a friendly dish - the friends must be seated and have wine or coffee served to them, so that they await cheerfully. Never cook the omelet till you have seen the recipient seated, with his napkin tucked down, ready to begin.' p. 213

Suggested fillings: chopped mushroom, shreds of chicken and ham, fresh chopped herbs for plain fillings; crisp bacon and fine onions for winter, green peas and asparagus for summer. 'Fillings should be slight, but very well flavoured and juicy.'
Sweet omelet: flavoured with rum or sherry (instead of water? Or just a sprinkle?) with a fruit or jam filling. Honey and cinnamon with a sprinkle of hot cider on the folded top

2 large mushrooms, chopped
1 slice bacon, diced
1 Tbsp butter
3 eggs
1/4 tsp fresh herb(s)
Dash of salt and pepper

  1. In a large oven-ready non-stick or well-seasoned cast iron pan, slowly fry the mushrooms and bacon in the butter.
  2. Meanwhile, separate the egg whites and whisk just until soft peaks barely form.
  3. Using the egg shells, measure out three egg-shell halves of water and add to the yolk, one for each egg. Add a dash of salt and pepper.
  4. Without wiping the whisk used to whip the whites, beat the yolks - 'they should raise a fine froth'.
  5. Once the filling is well cooked, remove it with a slotted spoon and keep it piping hot.
  6. Turn on the broiler of your oven.
  7. When the butter is once again smoking hot (add more if necessary, depending on filling), lightly mix together the yolk and whites and immediately pour the egg into the hot pan. 'It should make a delicious frou-frou soundas it greets the hot butter, and the top of the foam should quiver delicately.'
  8. Immediately put it under the broiler. The golden froth should start to expand upwards. If you like the centre a little runny, remove it in __ minutes or when __??__. If you prefer it cooked through cook __ minutes. In either case, the edges should come away from the pan.
  9. Slide it onto a hot dish, put the filling on one half 'folding it over in one swift movement. Serve instantly.'

Sunday 26 March 2017

Buckinghamshire Rabbit

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 213

(mentioned in the entry for Poached Eggs p. 212-3)

?? cups meat or vegetable stock
Salt and pepper
6 fresh eggs, like, only days old
1 loaf Wonder Bread or other country-style crusty bread
Butter (optional)

  1. Put the stock in a small pot and bring to just before a boil. Reduce the temperature to maintain it at a slow simmer.
  2. Put some thick slices of bread to toast to get them dry. 
  3. Into a small bowl crack an egg, create a vortex in the slowly simmering stock and, whites first, slowly slide the egg into the centre. Cook for about 3 minutes for soft yolks (and how else would a sensible person want their poached egg, anyway?). Scoop out with a slotted spoon and place on top of the dry toast, spooning some broth over it.
  4. NOTE: is this better with the broth served separately OR spooned over the bread, a little like Soupe à l'oignon?

Friday 17 March 2017

Buck Rabbit

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 212-213

(Mentioned as part of the Poached Egg entry)

I hope I have the sequencing right!! There are lots of parts to making this, which was unexpected when I started trying to work it out in writing.

1 recipe of Welsh Rabbit
1 loaf Wonder Bread
Butter
6 eggs
Vinegar
3 medium-to-small tomatoes
Salt and pepper
Oil

  1. Put on a pot of water to boil then reduce heat to a steady simmer.
  2. Toast the bread, butter it and set it aside.
  3. Meanwhile prepare the Welsh Rabbit up to the point where the sauce is finished.
  4. Heat up a pan or a grill. Cut the tomato in half; drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Fry the tomato on each side until it browns, 2-3 minutes.
  5. Into the simmering water add a dash of vinegar.
  6. Into a small bowl crack an egg, create a vortex in the simmering water and, whites first, slowly slide the egg into the centre. Cook for about 3 minutes for soft yolks (and how else would a sensible person want their poached egg, anyway?). Scoop out with a slotted spoon and drain on a cloth before assembling the dish.
  7. Turn on the oven broiler. Pour out the cheese sauce over the bread and grill in the oven as per the recipe.
  8. Layer the hot grilled tomato on top and the poached egg on top of that. Salt and pepper and serve immediately.

Tuesday 14 March 2017

Boiled Egg - Coddled Egg

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 212

Fresh and older eggs should be cooked differently (What is considered a non-fresh egg? How old must it be?)

Boiling an older egg - place in boiling water for 3.5 minutes.

Fresh egg - place in boiling water for 3.5 minutes. Remove the boiling bot of water from the heat source and let sit for an additional 5-6 minutes with the egg in it. 'Eggs cooked in this way can be kept in hot water for some time without becoming hard, and it preserves the natural moisture in the new-laid egg.'

Sunday 12 March 2017

Crypspey

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 221

'Take whyte of eyroun and mylke and floure and a lytel berme and bete to gederys so that it be renning and not too styf. Caste sugre thereto and salt, than take a chafer full of fresshe grece boyling and put thy hand in the lature and lat hym renne down thy fyngerys, into the chafere. Whan it is runne togedere on the chafere and is y now nym a skymer and tike it up and let all the grece renne out and put it on a fayre dyssche and cast theron sugre and serve forth (with).'

1 egg white
1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup flour
1/2 tsp dry active yeast (here 'berme' refers to 'barm', the yeast that forms on malt liquors while fermenting, but I don't know how to get this... yet)
1 Tbsp sugar + 1 Tbsp sugar
A pinch of salt
__ ? coconut or animal fat oil

  1. Unless you have barm on hand, you'll have to activate the dry active yeast. Warm the milk to body temperature, sprinkle the yeast on the surface, cover and let sit in a warm place for about 10 minutes. 
  2. Whisk the egg whites until fluffy, the add the flour and the milk, stirring until you get a batter that is like thick cream. If it's too thick, add more milk.
  3. Add the first Tbsp of sugar and the salt and let sit while the oil is heating up.
  4. (What size pot or frying pan for the oil? How much oil?)
  5. Once the oil is at 350F for frying, take up about a half cup of batter and let it run down your fingers into the hot oil; they become crisp little nests of sweet fried batter.
  6. Leave in the oil until it browns then flip to finish browning. Scoop it up with a slotted spoon and lay on paper towel to soak up any extra oil and while it's still hot sprinkle with the second Tbsp of sugar.

Saturday 11 March 2017

Mayonnaise

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 220

2 egg yolks
__ salt
__ pepper
__ dry mustard
1 Tbsp (or more) tarragon vinegar
1 pint salad (ie. bland) oil

  1. Whisk the eggs, salt, pepper and mustard until the yolk turns a pale yellow ('start the cream').
  2. Continually whisking, very slowly, in small quantities and alternately add the vinegar and the oil. Whisk constantly until the characteristic thick cream is formed.
  3. In hot weather work in a cold room or in a chilled bowl

Wrexham Pudding

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 220

- What kind of breadcrumbs? Fresh or dry, fine or coarse and would the crusts of the Wonder Bread qualify for brown or does it have to be a brown bread?
- What is sago and can it be substituted? It provides an interesting texture.
- What is a substitute to suet (until I can make some)?
- What are the cup measurements of the ingredients to include in the recipe along with the weight (so I have more flexibility).
- How does one steam a pudding (and add to instructions). And at what temperature?
- Locate and link Snowdon Pudding

'This is taken directly from a cookery book of 1890 and is one of the few hot winter puddings that uses many eggs.
'It was probably one of the Wynstey Hotel puddings, when that post-house was famous for its catering. This is more likely, because a pudding of the same style is still served on the old Pen y Pass route to Holyhead (see Snowdon Pudding) that connected with the Wynstey.'

1/2 lb brown breadcrumbs
1 lb suet (finely pounded)
2 oz sago (also pounded)
5 oz moist sugar
7oz orange marmalade
6 eggs (or more, should be enough to soak into the breadcrumbs and sago)
1 wineglass of brandy
__ butter
__ raisins

  1. Generously butter a deep casserole dish. Arrange raisins in the butter to make a 'device' or image.
  2. Mix together the breadcrumbs, the suet, the sago, sugar and marmalade.
  3. Wish the eggs thoroughly and add to the mix.
  4. When ready to bake, add the brandy at the last minute, pour into the dish and steam the pudding, covered, for an hour or more (make note of time).
  5. Serve with marmalade or egg-custard-brandy sauce.

Marigold Eggs

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 221

Hartley likely refers to Pot Marigold also known as Calendula for this recipe.

1 recipe savoury pie crust
__ apples, sliced thin
__ eggs
__ milk
__ pepper
__ salt
__ fresh thyme, chopped
1 - 2 leaves (very little) fresh sage, chopped fine__
fresh calendula petals, whole

  1. Pre-heat oven to 375F.
  2. Roll out the pie crust to line a shallow pie dish with.
  3. Arrange the sliced apple to evenly cover the bottom.
  4. Bake in the oven for __ or until the apple is just cooked and still firm.
  5. When the apple crust is done, remove from the oven and reduce the oven temperature to 350 for the custard.
  6. Whisk together the eggs and milk quite thoroughly.
  7. Add the salt, pepper, thyme, sage and petals.
  8. Pour the custard into the apple crust and bake for __ minutes or until set.
  9. Traditionally served alongside roast pork, in the same way Yorkshire pudding is served alongside roast beef.


Sunday 5 March 2017

Crabapple Verjuice

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 422

Ms. Hartley claims crab apples make the best quality apple verjuice.

? lbs crab apples, when their kernels have turned black

Tools required - wooden trough, wooden mallets, coarse weave bag or cheesecloth, a carboy or wooden cask the size of a hogshead (typically between 200 and 300L).

  1. When the kernels have turned black, harvest the crab apples and keep them in their baskets to 'sweat' for 7-10 days ('sweating' in this context is to let the apples sit in a shaded warm odour free place where they can finish developing their sugars and flavour profiles. They're done 'sweating' when a squeeze leave finger impressions in the fruit).
  2. In non-reactive troughs (wooden is choice), beat and crush with wooden mallets called beetles to release the juices.
  3. (This bit I'm uncertain. Dorothy transcribes 'Make a bagge or coarse hair-cloth and fill it with crabbes, and presse and run the liquor into Hogsheads.' If I were to extrapolate, it sounds like something like the 'cheese' made from straw in the Edwardian Farm (I think it was). It may be that the community apply press will do the job just fine without any fuss).
  4. (Can I complete the fermentation as I would for wine-making, in a carboy etc?) 

Pickling with verjuice

Food in England, dorothy Hartley, p. 422

'Take three quarts of the sharpest verjuice and put in a cold still and distil it off very softly; the sooner it is distilled in the spring the better for use.'

Verjuice of Apples

Food of England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 421-2

Ms. Hartley provides a definition and explanation of verjuice. This is not a recipe, but someday I would like to figure out how to make this as a replacement for lemon juice. We are planning on getting lemon trees, but with climate change, our mild north-west climate may change for colder winters, which would kill any trees. Since I depend quite a lot on lemons and lemon juice in many of my recipes, a workable alternative would be fantastic.

'Verjuice was in constant use till the last century, when its place was taken by the squeeze of lemon juice. It is really a very sharp cider - not a vinegar. The distilling was of interest, for it would account for the apparent mildness of some of the pickles made. In copying old recipes, very often a sharp cider is much nearer the original than modern vinegar.'

In this separate entry, Dorothy recommends distilling in the spring: http://lamouffetterustique.blogspot.com/2017/03/pickling-with-verjuice.html

"Having got crab apples, as soon as the kernels turn black, lay them in a heap to sweat, then pick them from stalks and rottenness, then in a long trough, with stamping beetles, stamp them to a mash, and make a bag of coarse haircloth, as square as the press, fill it with the stamped crab-apples, and being well pressed, put the liquor up in a clean vessel." (from The New British Jewel. London: Printed for Osborne and Griffin, and H. Mozley, Gainsborough, 1788
This is better explained in the other entry on Dorothy's book: http://lamouffetterustique.blogspot.com/2017/03/crabapple-verjuice.html

ALSO
"Today verjuice is making a comeback, and is used by many of the top chefs. It can be incorporated into salad dressings, used for deglazing pans, making sauces, fruit compotes, fish stock and in fact anywhere that vinegar or lemon juice may be used.
"There are several different recipes around, some partially ferment the apples first or sometimes a lacto-fermentation is encouraged but in this recipe it is just the unadulterated juice. It’s very simple to make and the 750g of crab apples that I collected yeided about 400ml of the finished verjuice.
  1. Wash the apples
  2. Blanch the apples in boiling water for a few minutes (this will soften the apples and make pressing them easier)
  3. Remove the stalks
  4. Put into a food processor and blitz into a fine pulp
  5. Put into a jelly bag or wrap in a muslin cloth
  6. Either press in an apple press, squeeze in a potato ricer or place in a sieve and weigh down with something heavy (cans of food etc.)
  7. Pass the juice through fine muslin cloth
  8. Bottle
  9. It’s worth making sure everything is spotlessly clean and sterilising the bottle, you can even add a splash of vodka to inhibit bacterial growth.

Toffee Apples

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 421

'Before the general importation of plantation sugar - they would be quite expensive. Probably small windfall apples dipped in a toffee of honey and beeswax bedabbled fairs of St. Bartholomew even before sugar, as we know it, came into general use.'

(how many) small apples
quarter lb butter
half lb treacle (molasses? what kind?)
1 lb brown sugar
1 Tbsp vinegar (apple cider?white?)

  1. Wash the apples and dry thoroughly. Poke in the stick.
  2. Melt the butter in a deep pot and then add the rest of the ingredients.
  3. Bring to a boil and keep on a roiling boil for 20 minutes (what candy thermometre temp?).
  4. Quickly dip the apples, (probably doing a rotation of apples to dip, allow to cool and dip again to develop a good crust).

Apple Custard Tansy

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 421

3 large apples (1 1/2 lbs), cored, peeled and sliced thin
1 Tbsp butter
1 Tbsp sugar
3 eggs
2 thirds cup whole milk or light cream
1 cup of fine bread crumbs (the same volume as the apples)
Dash nutmeg
half cup sugar

  1. Preheat oven to 300F.
  2. In an oven-proof fry pan, fry the apple in the butter until soft and then mash. Save about a quarter cup to serve on top when ready.
  3. Mix in the Tbsp of sugar and smooth over the bottom of the pan.
  4. Whisk together the eggs and milk along with the nutmeg and sugar, and blend in the bread crumbs.
  5. Pour the custard over the apple and bake very slowly for (until set).
  6. Serve hot with a dollop of the reserve apple mash.

Apple Tansy - Testing

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 421

1 - Very interesting! The instructions I worked out are pretty good. It ends up making a kind of thin apple soufflé, but not quite. I had no rose water but I'm curious to taste what it (or other flavoring agents) might do.
2 - The bottom seems to tend to scorch, the meringue being so delicate. I'm baking it like a souffle instead.
3 - Baking it seems to work fine! 30 minutes is good. I'm tempted to try reducing the sugar to 1/3 cup.
4 - Tried it with 1/3 cup and Ben thought it wasn't sweet enough. It could be that it needs more apple (I didn't have the full 500g) but I think I agree. Since a 1/2 cup is too much for me, I will offer a range, and next time I make this I will use 1/3 cup + 1 Tbsp (or a rounded 1/3 cup) of sugar. Everything else is spot on. NOTE: Upon re-reading the original, it seems I'm supposed to fold the cooked tansy kind of like an omelette but with the apple inside! What?!?

(1760?)

3 medium apples (500g), peeled, cored and cut in eighths
1 Tbsp (½ oz/14gr) butter
4 eggs, separated 
4 tsps. water
1 Tbsp rose water (or 1 tsp vanilla)
Dash nutmeg
½ 1/3 cup sugar
  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
  2. In an oven-proof 8" fry pan fry the apples in a single layer in the butter over medium-high heat just until soft. Remove from the heat. Watch carefully, they can scorch quickly.
  3. Whip together the egg yolks, water, rose water, nutmeg and sugar until the yolks triple in volume.
  4. Whisk the egg whites in a separate bowl until stiff-but-not-dry peaks form.
  5. Gently stir in a big spoonful of the whites into the yolk mixture to lighten it, then pour this into the remaining white, gently folding to incorporate and also to preserve as much loft as possible in the whites. If there are white bits left in the mix, no worries.
  6. Spread the meringue over the apples in the hot pan and immediately put in the oven. Bake 30 minutes or until the meringue browns nicely on top.  
  7. ORIGINAL INSTRUCTIONS: Pour this over the apples in the pan and fry for about 5-6 minutes or until the underside starts to brown. Set the oven to broil and brown the top before serving.
1760's instructions:
"Three or four apples pare and slice and fry in a little of butter till soft, take the yolks of 4 eggs and 4 spoonfuls of water, and rose-water, and nutmeg and sugar and beat well together, and whip the whites of the eggs to sno' and stir it in, and pour over the soft apples in the pan, and let it cook till set, brown the top side before the fire [under the grill in a modern stove] and fold with the apple pulp inside and dredge sugar and serve."

Saturday 4 March 2017

Apple Pasties

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p. 420

'(1600) Cook the quartered apples with sugar and stick of cinnamon, add a piece of fresh butter, some lemon juice and orange-flower water. Put the mixture into thin pastry cases, seal well, and fry them. Dredge sugar and serve hot.'

1 recipe Cookie Pie Crust (is this enough for 4 pasties?)
1 egg, beaten
1 quarter cup sugar
3 medium apples
cinnamon stick
1 Tbsp lemon juice
1 Tbsp orange water
1 Tbsp butter

  1. Core, peel and quarter the apples. Cook with the sugar, cinnamon stick and lemon juice until the apple softens but does not lose its shape. Remove from heat and stir in the butter and orange water. Allow to cool completely so as not to melt the dough.
  2. Prepare the dough and separate into 4 balls. Refrigerate for at least 15 minutes. Roll out to about 9 inches across. Plop a quarter of the cool apple mixture in the middle of each circle of dough. 
  3. Brush all around the edges of the dough circles with egg. Seal the edges by drawing opposite sides together, brush a bit more egg along the side of the sealed edges and fold over. 
  4. Either fry in butter, (I think?) or bake in a 425F oven for 10 minutes, then reduce temperature to 350F and cook another 45 minutes or until golden (if baked, I likely don't need to cook the apple, and should use cinnamon powder instead of the stick).

Tuesday 31 January 2017

Untested - Friar's Omelet

Food in Enlgand, Dorothy Hartley, p 420

Other reference : http://www.food.com/recipe/bacon-froise-19306

1-2 Tbsps butter
1 lb (about 3 med) apples, peeled, cored and coarsely sliced
1 egg, separated
1 cup milk
1 cup flour
2 Tbsps sugar
Dash each of cinnamon and nutmeg
  1. In a small bowl mix together the sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg.
  2. In a bowl mix together flour and sugar, then whisk in the milk and egg yolk. In a mixing bowl leave the egg white.
  3. Heat the butter in a large fry pan until it bubbles and crackles, then add the apple and fry until they become soft. Remove from heat and set aside.
  4. Meanwhile, whisk the egg white until stiff peaks form.
  5. Wipe the juices out of the pan and melt some fresh butter to cook the dough.
  6. Now, gently fold in the whisked egg white into the batter and pour the whole batch into the hot pan.
  7. OR TRY THIS: pour in half the batter, cook a bit, then add apple and our the rest of the batter on top. Cover with a lid and when the top starts to set flip and continue cooking without the lid.
  8. Allow the top to set before spooning the apples onto it and sprinkle with the sugar mix, and then fold the batter in half like you would an omelet.
  9. Scootch the omelet onto a serving plate and cut into slices and set in the middle of the table for everyone to help themselves.
  10. NOTE : you can sprinkle some icing sugar on top. 

Monday 9 January 2017

Untested - Ancestral Apple Pie

Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, p 419

"Of all the delicates which Britons try
To please the palate or delight the eye,
Of all the sev'ral kinds of sumptuous fare,
There is none that can with applepie compare."

This is the beginning of the lovely poem in Hartley's book that gives the recipe for this pie. I'm so looking forward to decoding it into a contemporary recipe!

2 recipes of sweet pie crust
2 quince
1⁄2 - 3⁄4 cup brown sugar
4 apples (pippins in the poem)
Pinch ground cloves
2 tsps candied orange/lemon/lime peel
1 Tbsp orange water

  1. Core and peel the quince and dice.
  2. Combine the quince and the brown sugar in a pot and cook to melt the sugar and release the juice from the quince. 
  3. Meanwhile, core and peel the apples and slice.
  4. When a deep red liquid has formed, add the cloves and candied peel.
  5. Add the sliced apples and cook until apple just starts to soften.
  6. Remove from heat and allow to cool before adding the orange water.